Step 1: measure the required thru axle length for your frame
1. Measure the available distance (O.L.D.) for the hub.
- Is the measured distance 142 mm? Go to the next step.
- Is the measured distance 148 mm? Go to step 3.
2. Check how to install the torque support on the frame.
A. The frame is designed for ITS (A) (Internal Torque Support). The thru axle and the brake side end cap are used as torque support. Go to step 11.
B. External torque support must be mounted on the brake side. ETS (B) (External Torque Support). Go to the next step.
3. Check if the outside of the frame dropout on the brake side is conical.
- If it is conical, go to the next step.
- If it is not conical, go to step 5.
4. Install a conical ring (1) in the frame.
5. Insert the Classified frame tool (2) completely into the frame dropout (3) on the brake side.
If you don't have a Classified frame measurement tool, you can download it at the bottom of this page.
6. Select the thru axle based on the marking that matches the inside of the inner frame dropout. In this illustration, the distance between A and B is for 142 mm.
For 142: A, B, C, D
For 148: C, D, E, F
7. Slide the Classified frame tool to the left until the surface of the frame dropout lines up with the selected thru axle marking. In this illustration, you line up with 142 mm from B.
8. Turn the Classified frame tool 360°. If the Classified frame tool cannot keep turning, slide it to the left until it can rotate freely. Now look at the Classified frame tool to check the new position of the frame dropout. For example, C instead of B.
9. Check if there is still space left between the Classified frame tool and the frame.
- If there is no space left between the Classified frame tool and the frame, go to step 11.
- If there is space left between the Classified frame tool and the frame, go to the next step.
10. Add spacers until the space has been filled.
11. Determine the correct pitch for the threaded end.
- Consult your bicycle manufacturer's website for the information.
- Check the marking on the previous thru axle. Example: M12 x P1.5.
- Compare the thread length of the previous thru axle to this thread end.
12. Carefully try to screw the thru axle into the frame to check if you have chosen the right pitch for the thread end. Unscrew the thru axle again.
13. Check how long the threaded end needs to be by placing the smart thru axle beside the original axle. Choose the closest equivalent, preferably a bit longer.
14. Place the spacers on the thru axle. If a metal spacer (6) has to be added, ALWAYS slide it onto the thru axle between 2 plastic rings (5) (7).
NOTE The edge on the side of the thru axle lever is not a spacer(!).
15. Install the thru axle in the frame.
16. Check that the marking is aligned with the inside of the dropout.
- The position of the thru axle is OK. Go to the next step.
- The position of the thru axle is NOT OK. Go back to step 12 to place the correct number of spacers.
17. Install the smart thru axle (9), ensuring that the thru axle lever (8) points towards the handlebar unit. If required, loosen the smart thru axle again and loosen the socket bolt (11) on the end of the smart thru axle. Now the stud (10) can be removed from the axle and turned. Retighten the smart thru axle and check that the thru axle lever points towards the handlebar unit. Repeat this until the thru axle lever points in the right direction.
NOTE Only the threaded end may be removed from the axle. No other components of the thru axle should be removed!
18. Apply locking compound to the socket bolt and tighten the threaded end to a torque of 4 Nm.
19. Charge the smart thru axle. Please refer to Recharging the battery of the smart thru axle in this article.
20. Install the smart thru axle. Tighten at 10Nm, this feels hand-tight.
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