1. Is your chainring specific for 1x drivetrains?
1x chainrings have a narrow-wide tooth pattern that fits the narrow and wider links on a chain. Using a chainring made for shifting will greatly increase your chances of dropping a chain.
2. Is your chain in good condition?
Generally, you should replace your chain when the wear is close to or over 0.5- 0.75%. A chain that is worn too far will not sit on the chainring correctly. To read more about chain wear and how to measure it, we kindly refer to this article.
3. Is the length of your chain correct?
If your chain is not shortened to the correct length when installing, it could be too loose and not be held up to the correct tension over the chainring. Refer to the manual of your derailleur for the correct chain length. Since the Classified system is based on one chainring, you will need to apply the chain length for a 1x system.
4. Does your rear derailleur have a clutch mechanism/Is your derailleur clutch switched on?
A clutch is a mechanism in a rear derailleur that pulls the bottom section of chain between the derailleur and chainring taught. If your derailleur doesn’t have a clutch, we strongly suggest you upgrade to a model that does or mount a chain guide for additional security. On clutch-equipped SRAM rear derailleurs the clutch is always activated. On Shimano rear derailleurs you have to activate them by flipping the Stabilizer switch upward.
5. Is the tension on the B-screw correct?
The B-screw adjusts the distance between the top derailleur pulley wheel and the cassette. If this distance is too small, and the chain is at the correct length, the tension on the chain can be too low. Please refer to the manual of your rear derailleur to determine the correct distance between pulley and cassette.
6. Is your chain line correct?
In extreme cases it could be that the chainring isn’t mounted at the correct chain line. Chain line is directly linked to the design of your frame and the components mounted to it. In general, if you look at your drivetrain from the rear and the chainring only lines up with the largest or the smallest sprocket of your cassette, you might have an issue. In that case the chain will be pulling to one side in almost every gear, causing extreme cross-chaining angles. If you think this might be an issue, we suggest you take your bike to one of our competent Classified Dealers and take a deeper look at the cause of this chain line.
For specific use and to offer the highest level of security, for instance when using on very rough terrain or in racing situations, we advise to use a chain guide.
If these suggestions don’t solve your chaindrop issues, we also recommend to install a chain guide on your chainring. Out of the guides that we’ve tested with our system, we have had the best experiences with the K-Edge Chain Guide.